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<p class="">Have you seen this?</p><p class=""><a href="http://nadelundfadenpress.com/">http://nadelundfadenpress.com/</a></p><p class="">Here is the Kickstarter page:</p><p class=""><a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor">https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor</a></p>
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<h6>Project by</h6>
<h5><a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor/creator_bio" class="">Marion McNealy</a></h5>
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<span class=""><a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/discover/places/middletown-ri">Middletown, RI</a></span>
<span class=""><a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor/messages/new?message%5Bto%5D=1511672022" class="">Contact me</a>
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If you have any questions - you can still contact Marion (she's on facebook too).<br><br><br><br></div><p class=""><br></p><p class="">Never before published! Three rare 16th c tailoring
manuscripts translated into English, with photos, diagrams, and
descriptive text.</p>
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<h1>A book by Katherine Barich and Marion McNealy</h1><p>Extant garments
from the 16th century are very rare, and are such a small sample of the
wide variety of garments which were worn, that many questions are left
unanswered. About twelve years ago, Drea Leed posted microfiche scans of
the <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/schnittbuch/" target="_blank">Leonfelder Schnittbuch</a>
on her website. I was entranced by these line drawings of pattern
shapes laid out on the cloth. There were no drawings of the finished
garments, just the pieces on the page. It was like a puzzle, in which
you had pieces, and several possible pictures that the pieces might
make.</p><p>I made one dress from the Leonfeld Schnittbuch, and set out on a long
path to learn more about this book, and whether there were any more to
be found. Over the years, I have found and studied two more Austrian
tailor’s masterbooks: Enns (1590), and Nidermyer (1560), as well as a
few German ones which will not be included in this volume.</p><p>Drei
Schnittbücher is the result of a collaborative effort between Katherine
Barich and myself to publish these three rare Austrian tailors' guild
masterbook manuscripts, or schnittbuch.
</p><h1>What is a Tailor's Masterbook?
</h1><p>A tailor’s masterbook contains drawings of all of the major
garments and other items that a Master Tailor would be expected to make.
Tailors didn't just make clothing, but also tents, saddle covers,
flags, wagon covers, and clothes for the clergy. These books were the
master books for the Tailors Guilds, which they contained the material
that the journeyman would be tested on to become a master. </p><p>These
books do not include all the information that the aspiring master would
have needed to know, however because of this, we have gone beyond a
simple translated facsimile of the manuscripts, and have included the <i>additional information</i> that the journeyman would have needed to know to pass the exam.</p><h1>The Master Tailor's Exam</h1><p>In
order to become a Master Tailor, the journeyman had to pass an oral
examination in front of the head of the Tailors Guild in the town or
region in which he wished to practice, as well as provide actual
garments to be examined by the Guild Master and examining board. The
exam typically consisted of several parts:
</p><p><b>1. FABRIC WIDTHS
</b></p><p>Fabrics came in many different widths, and the journeyman
had to know which fabrics came in which widths, if they needed to be
shrunk before use, and whether they had a nap, grain, or pattern that
would affect the placement of the garment pieces on the fabric.
</p><p>The Enns manuscript includes a list of fabrics and their widths,
which is a helpful start for a glossary of fabric names and information,
as well as colors which derived from a contemporary Austrian cloth
merchant's inventory. There is also a contemporary toll list for wares
sold on the Mauth River, which also give key details on local fabric
availability. </p><p><b>2. TYPES OF GARMENTS AND THE FABRICS USED
</b></p><p>The journeyman had to know what types of fabrics would be
appropriate for each garment, given a particular length and width of the
garment, so that when a customer came into the shop, he could give a
complete answer to the customer of what fabrics they were legally
allowed to wear according to their station.
</p><p><b>3. SUMPTUARY LAWS
</b></p><p>The journeyman had to know the local social structure and
applicable sumptuary laws as well. The type of cloths allowed to Bauren
(farmers and peasants) was quite different from those allowed to the
Burgher (merchants and craftsman) class. Even within classes, there were
differences. Burghers who were common city dwellers, laborers, and
grocers were not able to wear silk or camlet, but Burghers who were
merchants could wear these fabrics. We will include several applicable
regional and Imperial sumptuary laws, translated into English.
</p><p><b>4. AMOUNT OF FABRIC NEEDED FOR EACH GARMENT
</b></p><p>The journeyman would then be tested on how much fabric was
needed for a list of garments. Because fabric came in so many different
widths, he would need to be able to answer how much fabric would be
needed for the same garment in different fabric types.
</p><p><b>5. PATTERN LAYOUTS
</b></p><p>The journeyman would then take his chalk and mark out the
width of the fabric on a board. Whether this was a piece of the wall or a
cutting table, we don’t know, but we do know this was done with chalk.
He would then draw the pattern layout of the garments chosen by the
Guild Master as part of the test. These are the diagrams that we see in
the three Austrian tailor’s masterbooks: Leonfelder, Enns, and
Nidermyer.</p><p>In our book, each pattern from the manuscripts will have:
</p><ul><li>Photo of the original manuscript page
</li><li>Transcription of the original German handwriting with an English translation
</li><li>Diagram of the pattern pieces, laid out for you to see how the pieces probably fit together. </li><li>Artwork depicting similar styles and examples of extant garments when they can be found</li></ul><p><b>Over 80+ Patterns included in the book:</b></p>
<ul><li>39 men's garments, including 6 in Hungarian styles</li><li>11 women's garments, including 4 dresses</li><li>4 tent patterns, single and double pole</li><li>9 horse garments and saddle covers</li><li>18 clerical garments for priests and monks, for Mass and everyday wear</li>
</ul><h1>GUILD ARTICLES
</h1><p>Why did these books exist? How were the tailor's guilds
organized and structured? The Enns book contains 15 or so pages of the
guild articles, and we will include sections which explain why these
books were created.</p><h1>TOOLS OF THE TAILOR</h1><p>What tools did the tailor have? How did he use them? We’ll explore the tools they had available.
</p><h1>Where Will All the Funding Go?
</h1><p>How will the money be spent? We've developed a detailed budget and plan, and here's how it breaks down:</p><p>50% will be spent on:
</p><ul><li>Photography fees for two of the manuscripts (which have never been photographed before!)</li><li>Art fees to museums for photographs of paintings, extant garments
and items similar to the garments in the manuscripts. Museums include:
Metropolitan Museum of Art NYC, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Sächsische
Landesbibliothek - Staats- und Universitätsbibliothek Dresden (SLUB) and
others.</li><li>Professional design and layout, making the book easy to use.
</li></ul><p>The truth about crowdfunding is that the remaining 50% is spent as follows:</p><ul><li>8-10% goes to Kickstarter as funding fees for a successful campaign and credit card processing fees. </li><li>40% goes to printing and shipping costs for the Kickstarter rewards. </li>
</ul><p>Want to be a project angel? Support at the higher levels. Your pledges stretch farther there.</p><h1>The Authors</h1><p><b>Katherine Barich</b></p><p><br><b>Marion McNealy</b></p><p><b><br></b></p><br><br><br><br>
<a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor">https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor</a><br clear="all">
<br>-- <br> Adina<br>
<br>
Baronessa di Ponte Alto
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