[MR] Shield Press/Heater Construction

Tue Nov 16 04:45:48 PST 2010

 I hate to admit it, but I'm not sure what its technical name is.  It's flexible channel, usually with a textured look.  It's used to edge doors to prevent chipping, and also on the edges of metal sections where wires or hoses pass through or around, to prevent chafing them.  It's sturdy and attractive, comes in several colours so you could coordinate it with your heraldry if you wished.

Syr Aradd has a spool of it; I got some from him.  If he sees this, perhaps he will enlighten us.

Your servant aye
Donal

-----Original Message-----
From: J. C. Smith Ispán (hon.) <jsmithcsa at yahoo.com>
To: Merry Rose <atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Sent: Tue, Nov 16, 2010 2:21 am
Subject: Re: [MR] Shield Press/Heater Construction

Wow.  I didn't ask the original question, but thanks for good, detailed 

response.  

Can you give more detail on the "Automotive style edging"?  I have always used 

aluminum gutter material but it doesn't work on curved shields -- this could be 

a good alternative.

Barcsi Janos

JEFFREY C. SMITH 

"[I]f the public are bound to yield obedience to laws to which they cannot give 

their approbation, they are slaves to those who make such laws and enforce 

them."

-- Candidus (Pen name of Samuel Adams during the era of the Sons of Liberty. 

Source: Boston Gazette, 1772)

________________________________

From: "jbrmm266 at aol.com" <jbrmm266 at aol.com>

To: atlantia at atlantia.sca.org

Sent: Tue, November 16, 2010 9:11:08 AM

Subject: Re: [MR] Shield Press/Heater Construction

Concerning the plywood itself:  You should use two sheets of 1/4" or perhaps 

3/8" plywood.  It's better to glue and bend it as a rectangle and then cut it to 

the shield shape after it's bent, because the two sheets will actually be 

slightly different in size when it's bent.

When cutting the plywood to the basic rectangle shape, take note of the 

direction of the grain.  1/4" and 3/6" plywood are made of only 3 layers, two of 

which have the grain going in one direction and the third at right angles to the 

other two.  Cut it so that the grain of the outer two layers is vertical.  If 

you do not, you'll have an awful time getting the stiff to bend, and it probably 

won't bend evenly.

Slather, I say, SLATHER, the plywood with a good-quality carpenter's glue like 

Elmer's.  The aim is to have essentially a complete layer of glue between the 

two sheets.  Bend it around a tree or power pole as described using ratchet 

straps.    Bend it more than you want the curve of the finished shield to be, 

because it will spring back somewhat when  you release the tension.  I also 

recommend using four or more to distribute the force evenly.The glue will drip 

out between the layers.  That's OK.. Leave it in place for at least 24 hours.  

The end result will be essentially a curved sheet of 1/2" plywood.  The glue 

tends to hold it to the curvature.  If you managed to bend a 1/2" sheet, it 

would want to snap back to flat over time.

Cut it to the shape you desire.

Splintering around the edges is the biggest destroyer of plywood shields.  It 

would be advantageous to rim it with metal or leather to absorb some of the 

impact.  Automotive style edging is better than heater hose.  It's more durable 

(it has a metal core) and is more compact.  It also looks better.

To strap it I recommend Sir Corby's method. I believe it's on a web site, but 

there are many who can explain it to you.

As far as decorating the shield, you can paint it half-and-half blue and white 

(Atlantian livery) or if you're ambitious you can emblazon it with the Atlantian 

ensign (the field of the Royal Arms with no charges) or paint it white and put a 

blue Spike on it, or vice versa.  If your local branch has a badge, you could 

use that.

Of course, you can start the process to acquire your own heraldry - which I 

heartily recommend.

Your servant aye

Donal Mac Ruiseart.

-----Original Message-----

From: Girard le Bourguignon <girard at erminespot.com>

To: Achbar Ibn Ali <achbar at earthlink.net>

Cc: Atlantia <atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>

Sent: Mon, Nov 15, 2010 8:27 pm

Subject: Re: [MR] Shield Press/Heater Construction

My suggestion is to:

Use more ratchet straps - like 4. More if you have them. The more you

distribute the force, the better.

Soak the wood down with a hose. I like to get it just hanging on the

tree, hose it down, then really start cranking the straps to curve it.

Put some foam between the shield blank and the tree.  It's unlikely

you will have a perfect tree, as it would be very large around. Put

some foam in there to even the curve out and keep it from making a

pressure spot right in the middle.

Curve it more than you really want. You lose about half the curve when

it comes off the tree.

But, good on ya for making a wooden shield. I hope I get a Vance to

fight it sometime.

-Baron Girard of Windmasters' Hill

On Monday, November 15, 2010, Achbar Ibn Ali <achbar at earthlink.net> wrote:

> On Mon, 15 Nov 2010 16:24:17 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>

>>Hello, Friends.

>>Anyone have any experience in the construction of a curved Heater?  I was

>>looking at the plywood in my garage, and I have nothing that seems strong 

enough

>>to withstand the beatings of Rauland or some newbie hunting duke.

>

> Blackbow taught me this trick.  Take some nylon ratchet straps, you

> can find these at auto supply stores.  You will need about two. Make

> a Glue sandwich with your plywood and glue.  Find a Tree, a good round

> tree.  Ratchet the top and bottom of your boards and let this set up

> for about twenty four hours.  They you will have a shield.  If you are

> watching this thread Jonathan, please help  the gentleman out.

>

>

>

> Achbar

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