[MR] The Pilgrimage - on Holywell

[Julie Morris]

The Pilgrimage – November 17th – Canton of Cyddlain Downs
http://schc.sc.edu/william/pilgrimage/
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Unto the tavern doth Baroness Julian Hungerford send warm greetings,
 
My friends, I am on home soil once again, actually I am happy to be on any type of soil again. As I mentioned in my last missive, Bonaria is a port city, well - village. Being concerned with returning to Cyddlain Downs by the 17th of November, My Welsh companions and I chose to travel by ship and so commissioned passage on the St. Erasmus. I promise, I considered my safety and confirmed they had a Letter of Marque. Quite an impressive one at that, it was beautifully wrought! Although thinking back, the date was a bit smudged – oh dear. Please do not mention that to the captain when you meet her. Yes, her. I was quite surprised to find a woman in charge. It was quite refreshing and in part why I chose this particular ship. 
 
Our travels began with clear skies and a good wind, blessings from our Lady of Bonaria. It was our misfortune though to enter stormy waters after passing beneath Spain. I will forever give thanks for choosing a ship named after the patron saint of sailors. St. Erasmus was truly watching over us as we crossed the storm-churned waves. I admit to being quite frightened but kept thoughts of friends and home close to mind and with much prayer made it through the storm in one piece. After remaining in the hold for far too long, I eventually made my way topside to visit with the crew of the Erasmus. While they are a bit rougher lot than with whom one would expect to find me – I do say they are quick to laugh and tell a joke – quite a merry lot – by the end of this long journey we became boon companions. In fact, they are joining us in Cyddlain Downs, and believe it will become one of their permanent ports.
 
We landed not far from our destination of Holywell and friends, as I alluded, it was wonderful to feel the firm ground beneath my feet and to see the familiar rolling countryside spread out before my eyes. It is so good to be so close to home. Holywell is the site of both a tragic and, of course, miraculous moment in history, where young St. Winifred was killed while preventing herself from defilement. Her uncle Beuno, a monk and saintly man himself, prayed over her, restoring her to life and health. If that was not miracle enough, a spring of healing waters burst forth whence her head had come to rest.
 
After hearing so many stories of this holy site and the incredible number of miracles attributed to its healing well, I fully expected a grand cathedral or at least a structure to contain the holy waters, such as a bathing pool. But no, no structure exists surrounding the spring. It is truly one with the land, a humbling sight with these blessed blue waters bursting forth from the land itself. It is traditional that those calling upon the healing of the well shall bathe three times as told by St. Beuno to St. Winifred. And so, with this in mind, I bathed my travel worn body and weary spirit, praying for the strength to continue my journey. While I required no grand healing, the act itself brought peace and filled me with such content that I have no doubts as to the blessings showered upon this humble place and know that I now have the fortitude to continue my journey for a short while longer. 
 
My traveling companions and I retired to nearby Basingwerk Abbey, whose monks offer Welsh hospitality to all visitors of the well. It is there we discovered that while there is no formal structure over the well at this time, rumors abound of plans to create a grand shrine in celebration of this miraculous place – although as generally occurs with these types of things no one knows when it will even be started let alone completed. 
 
I do wish that we could take a short detour to visit nearby Shrewsbury where rest the relics of the blessed Saint Winifred. She was removed from Holywell many years ago and most pilgrims do pay their respects at both but I fear I have overstayed and we must be on our way to meet you on time. For the time is drawing near my friends. We shall share many grand tales in a few short days. Take care and safe travels to all until we meet again.
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