[MR] The Pilgrimage - Tales from Bonaria

[Julie Morris]

The Pilgrimage – November 17th – Canton of Cyddlain Downs
http://schc.sc.edu/william/pilgrimage/
 
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My friends, I hope this letter finds you in good health, of which I have just attained, having recovered from my arduous climb to the incredible heights of Rocamadour – and only a few scars to show for it. I also find myself in much better spirits and rather chagrined at my behaviour on the climb. But I have reclaimed the proper mien of a pious pilgrim and am now on my way to Bonaria on an island off the coast of Italy. Italy! I cannot believe how far I have traveled. Having never traveled but a day or two beyond my home, I now find myself weeks away. It is an incredible feeling of freedom which is truly indescribable. I fear that occasionally this feeling gets the best of me and I must remind myself of the purpose of these travels and maintain a proper prayerful attitude.
 
You would not believe with whom I am now traveling. I had the pleasure of staying at a quaint little inn called the Wayfarer before leaving Rocamadour, at which I happened upon three fellow pilgrims from home, or near enough after one has traveled this distance, Welsh longbowmen. I convinced them to join me on to Bonaria. I must say, I can certainly understand why they are so feared – their skill is truly blessed by Saint Sebastian and I have given due thanks they are on our side. 
 
As I mentioned, Bonaria is on an island and oh my friends, the view of the land rising from the water has made me yearn for home. The cliffs, though not nearly as impressive as Dover, tugged at my heart, mind, and spirit. One always appreciates home the more after being so long away. Bonaria, as the youngest of the sites I have chosen to visit, is not yet on the more traditional pilgrimage paths. The village itself is quite small as compared to the places I have been and not crowded at all. Although quite a number of sailors, as it is a port city – what an interesting lot! Aachen, Rocamadour, and Chichester especially had more pilgrims than I could count. One might think the press of the crowds would diminish the spirit of these places, but not true – knowing that all were there to share in the celebration gave an incredible sense of community that sent my spirit soaring. Seeing the sleepy village of Bonaria caused me some trepidation that the experience would be lacking – but not so!
 
You might not be familiar with the story, so let me share. I hope this is a correct telling, it took much translation and some creative gesturing to receive the miraculous story of this blessed site from its Spanish caretakers. Here is housed a statue of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus, which had been cast out of a storm struck ship not that many years ago. The statue safely rode the tumultuous sea to shore, still carrying a lit candle in her blessed hand. This is no small statue, my friends, Mary stands proudly at full height – I was amazed. The surroundings make this even more poignant as Mary and the baby Jesus dominate the chapel. The silence that pervades this humble site filled me with such awe so different than the towering cathedral of Aachen – which inspires with its massiveness, yet intricately-wrought construction. The statue is the reason for this place and you could feel this in the very air. Being unworthy to look into her eyes, I knelt humbly at Mary’s feet with my companions, praying that the good winds of Bonaria will see me swiftly and safely home.
 
And home, I shall be soon my friends – I have but one stop until we meet again in Cyddlain Downs. You are ever in my thoughts, Julian Hungerford
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