[MR] Gussets for mens rapier fighting shirt

[Aedan Aylwyn]

Not sure how you're putting in the gusset.  One typical problem is that the
gusset is nothing more than an additional partial tube down the sleeve of
the shirt.  Depending on how the doublet fits (i.e. how big the arm hole
is), there may be a portion body exposed.  Have them wear the shirt and
doublet and then stand with arms either straight out or slightly raised and
see what parts of the arm pit and torso are exposed and not covered by the
gusset.

Something that I've seen done quite well when adapting existing shirts is to
make a large diamond of 3 or 4 layers of cloth.  It gets tacked into the
existing shirt by its four corners (and perhaps in the middle).  Tack two
points of it along the circular seam of the sleeve and the other two points
straight out the sleeve and straight down the body.  This gives you coverage
over the armpit, out the underside of the arm and down the torso where it
might be exposed by the doublet.

Hope my quick description makes sense.

Aedan

----------
Master Aedan Aylwyn, Provost                     Caer Mear, Atlantia
Email: aedan (at) mindspring.com                Royal Bad Influence -
Retired
Academie d'Espee: http://www.mindspring.com/~aedan
 * * Audentes fortuna iuvat. * *  

 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: atlantia-bounces at atlantia.sca.org 
> [mailto:atlantia-bounces at atlantia.sca.org] On Behalf Of Curt 
> & Melissa Rhoades
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:20 PM
> To: atlantia at atlantia.sca.org
> Subject: [MR] Gussets for mens rapier fighting shirt
> 
> Help!   I am hainving a ..  Not so nice debate over the gussets in my
> husbands rapier fighting shirt.  The first gussets I made 
> when he took them
> to a fighter practice were apperantly too small.  If he moved 
> around his
> shirt bagged at the armpit the shirt fell away from him so 
> the gussets were
> then ineffective.  My argument was that he would never be 
> fighting without
> the doublet so that would not be a problem.  So I am asking 
> the fighters and
> the fighter's seamstresses out there.  Exactly how big is a 
> gusset for a
> Rapier's shirt supposed to be and how should it go into a 
> shirt?  The arm
> hole of this shirt isn't exactly straight.  It is on a bit of 
> an angle so
> it's a bit tricky.  I thank you in advance for all your help 
> and my forhead
> thanks you too.  I really am tired of banging it against the desk.
> El Tuyo en Servicio
> Cordelia Riquel del Ciervo y Luna Blanco
>  
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